Eric Horst's Training Videos from TrainingforClimbing.com

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Eric Horst's Training Videos from TrainingforClimbing.com

Postby SRCFCDirector » Tue May 23, 2017 3:22 pm

The following videos are a great start or addition to anyone's knowledge on training for rockclimbing. ENJOY!

Launched in 2000, trainingforclimbing.com is the original—and most visited—climbing performance websites. This site is owned and edited by Eric J. Hörst (pronounced “Hurst”), an internationally renowned author, researcher, climbing coach, and accomplished climber of more than 40 years. Please visit his website for more information and give him a thanks for all that he has added to the climbing community.

Training Finger Strength (Epic-TV Episode 1)
The first episode presents two effective protocols for developing maximum finger flexor strength.


Contact Strength Training (Epic-TV Ep. #2)
Three campus training exercises for developing contact strength


Campus Power Training (Epic-TV Ep. #3)

Campus training exercises for building upper-body power.


Complete Core Training (Epic-TV Ep. #4)

Five exercises that together will provide a comprehensive core workout.


Antagonist & Stabilizer Training (Epic-TV Ep. #5)

Maintaining healthy shoulders and climbing your best.
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Re: Eric Horst's Training Videos from TrainingforClimbng.com

Postby SRCFCDirector » Mon Jun 05, 2017 4:46 pm

TRAINING DAY 6/4/17

GENERAL COMMENTS: So far I have been doing some specific climbing training about one day a week. I have watch the videos and slowly developing a full routine. Trying to figure out how much/often to train. Before doing the below I climbed four auto belay routes ranging from 5.9 to 5.11. I felt warm-up enough for hangboarding.

Minimum Edge Hangboarding (see picture to see holds)
Set 1 5 x 10 secs with 50 secs rest on second to smallest
5 minutes rest
Set 2 5 x 12 secs with 48 secs rest on largest four finger
5 minutes rest
Set 3 6 x 12 secs with 48 secs rest on largest four finger and deepest two finger pockets alternating hand in pocket
WP_20170529_10_52_33_Pro.jpg
Hangboard at gym

Campusing (see picture)
1 set Two pad rungs no skip 5 rungs high every minute 5 times
2 set Big rungs no skip 6 rungs high every minute 5 times
3 set big balls alternating balls 4 balls high every minute 5 times
WP_20170529_11_12_02_Pro.jpg
Campus board

Rings
5 five seconds extensions from knees 10 seconds between rep
Calvin Landrus
Solid Rock - Climbers for Christ
Executive Director
SRCFCDirector
Site Admin
 
Posts: 245
Joined: Tue Dec 07, 2010 11:32 am
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Re: Eric Horst's Training Videos from TrainingforClimbing.co

Postby SRCFCDirector » Wed Jun 21, 2017 4:04 pm

Update to Calvin's training program - actual workouts below.

Summary: I'm getting a handle on the hangboarding and campusing. Will continue to increase these and begin to seperate them to different days and add new trainings from Eric's videos. I have control route at Smith at is way above my present ability. Since the my training started, I'm controlling 80% of holds which is up from about 60% from before starting the workouts. I'll see if I can to 100% and begin to project the route.

Training June 11
Yesterday rest day. Day before climbed and onsighted 5.12-,11+,11, made huge improvement on hard 11+. Ran eight miles before today's workout.

Minimum Edge
Set 1 5 x 8 secs with 52 secs rest on second to smallest 5 minutes rest
Set 2 5 x 8 secs with 52 secs rest on second to smallest 5 minutes rest
Set 3 6 x 12 secs with 48 secs rest on largest four finger and deepest two finger pockets alternating hand in pocket
Set 4 5 x 10 secs with 50 secs rest on largest four finger
5 minutes rest

Campusing
1 set Two pad rungs no skip 6 rungs high every minute 5 times 5 minutes rest
2 set Big rungs no skip 6 rungs high every minute 5 times 5 minutes rest
3 set big balls alternating balls 5 balls high every minute 5 times 5 minutes rest

Rings
5 five seconds extensions from knees 10 seconds between rep 2 sets

Training June 20

Yesterday rest day. Day before climbed at Smith Ran 14 miles before today's workout.

Minimum Edge
Set 1 5 x 8 secs with 52 secs rest on second to smallest 5 minutes rest
Set 2 5 x 8 secs with 52 secs rest on second to smallest 5 minutes rest
Set 3 6 x 8 secs with 52 secs rest on largest four finger and deepest two finger pockets alternating hand in pocket
Set 4 5 x 8 secs with 52 secs rest on largest 3 finger pockets
5 minutes rest

Campusing none area closed

Rings
1st set ten seconds extensions from knees 15 seconds between rep
Calvin Landrus
Solid Rock - Climbers for Christ
Executive Director
SRCFCDirector
Site Admin
 
Posts: 245
Joined: Tue Dec 07, 2010 11:32 am
Location: Smith Rock, Constantly
Has thanked: 137 times
Been thanked: 75 times

Re: Eric Horst's Training Videos from TrainingforClimbing.co

Postby SRCFCDirector » Fri Jul 07, 2017 9:35 am

7/6/2017
Yesterday ran six miles. Bouldered 50 vpoints before. 30 minutes rest before training.

Current Thinking: I have been away to Yosemite and had a bit of a break. I've added a bit more campusing. Need to take a look at the other videos to start another day of training.

Minimum Edge
Set 1 5 x 8 secs with 52 secs rest on second to smallest 5 minutes rest
Set 2 5 x 8 secs with 52 secs rest on second to smallest 5 minutes rest
Set 3 6 x 8 secs with 52 secs rest on largest four finger and deepest two finger pockets alternating hand in pocket
Five minute rest
Set 4 5 x 8 secs with 52 secs rest on largest 3 finger pockets
10 minutes rest

Campusing
1 set Two pad rungs no skip 6 rungs high every minute 5 times 5 minutes rest
2 set Big rungs no skip 7 rungs high every minute 5 times 5 minutes rest
3 set big balls alternating balls 6 balls high every minute 5 times 5 minutes rest
4 set diagonal blocks start matched reach one hand match reach same hand again march alternate reach every minute 4 times 5 minutes rest

Rings
1st set ten seconds extensions from knees 15 seconds between rep 5 reps
2nd set ten seconds extensions from knees 15 seconds between rep 5 reaps
Calvin Landrus
Solid Rock - Climbers for Christ
Executive Director
SRCFCDirector
Site Admin
 
Posts: 245
Joined: Tue Dec 07, 2010 11:32 am
Location: Smith Rock, Constantly
Has thanked: 137 times
Been thanked: 75 times


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